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Article reprinted courtesy of http://www.Cleaningpro.com
e-mail: wgriffin@cleaningconsultants.com
Removal of spots and
stains is critical to the overall appearance of every carpeted
area. The most effective approach is to remove spots and spills
as soon as they are noticed. The longer you wait the less
likely you'll be able to clean up the mess and completely
remove the spot.
With a tile floor it's a simple matter. Wipe
up the spill and your work is done. With carpeting it's a
different story. Wait too long and you may have a permanent
stain. Rub or scrub too hard and you'll change the texture
of the face fibers. Use the wrong chemical and you could change
the color, melt the fibers or destroy the latex adhesive that
holds the carpet together. And this is just a sampling of
what can happen when a well meaning but inexperienced or untrained
custodian attempts to remove spots from carpet.
THE BASICS
-Get to the spill fast. Most spills can be
completely removed if you begin the removal process before
they dry.
-Remove the excess. If it's dry use a vacuum
hose. If it's wet, use a wet vacuum hose. If it's something
like mud that has dried, gently scrape the surface to break
it up and then use the vacuum hose to remove as much as you
can while dry, before you begin the wet cleaning process.
Water plus soil makes mud, which is more difficult to remove
than dry soil.
-Don't over wet. Mist or spray on a small amount
of water or water based general-purpose carpet spotter. Work
an area the size of a quarter first; see if the chemical is
working to remove the spot. If it works, expand the size of
the area you're working. If not, try a solvent based spotter.
Blot with a dry clean cloth to remove soil and spotter; for
large spots use a wet vacuum for removal.
PROCEDURE:
* Remove the excess, scrape, blot or vacuum.
* Test the spotting chemical and blot. If the color doesn't
come out and the fiber doesn't melt, continue.
* Apply the spotter; mist on a small amount. Be careful, don't
over wet.
* Gently massage the fibers in a circle, toward the center
of the spot.
* Allow dwell time (30 seconds) to let the chemical work.
* Blot to remove with a dry cloth. Do not rub or scrub. *
Inspect the rag to see if it's working. If it is, the spot
will be on the rag.
* If it is working, continue the process. You may have to
repeat the process several times to completely remove the
spot.
* If it's not working, try a dry solvent chemical and repeat
the process. If this works, continue. If not, go to 10.
*Try a specialized carpet spotting chemical.
* If it works, continue. If it doesn't work...
* STOP. It's a permanent stain. Continuing will only make
it worse. As a professional cleaner you must also know when
to STOP.
Keep in mind that not all spots are removable
without damage to the face fiber, which may cause a visible
change in the appearance, texture or color of the carpet.
That's what we call a permanent stain. You can't remove it
chemically. Although a sharp razor blade is still an option,
you had better check with your supervisor before you start
cutting holes in the carpet.
COMMON SPOTS: Let's
look at some common spots found in facilities and what can
be used in an attempt to remove them.
*INK: Very difficult to remove; chances of
compete removal are slim.
*VOMIT: Use a shampoo type spotter and finish
with an enzyme spotter and finally apply a deodorant. This
is a body fluid. WEAR YOUR GLOVES.
*BLOOD: Wear RUBBER gloves. This is a body
fluid. Don't wet vacuum. Use cold water and blot. This is
for a small spot less than two inches in diameter. For large
spots, call a professional cleaning service or replace the
carpet.
*RUST: Use a specialty product. Be careful;
most are dangerous acid based products. Wear your gloves.
*GUM: Use a freeze type or natural solvent
gum remover. (Editor's Note: -Or, Healthy Clean Building's
"RID-A-GUM")
*GLITTER: Use a vacuum or a sticky roller.
*KOOL AID OR FRUIT PUNCH: Use a specialty type
spotter, generally a dye transfer product that uses steam
or heat.
*COKE: Use a general-purpose spotter and follow
with an enzyme spotter.
*COFFEE: Use a mild acid like white vinegar
or a specialty spotter for removing tannin type stains. These
are slow, so be patient.
*URINE: Rinse with water, white vinegar and
then blot dry.
*COSMETICS: Blot with a solvent based spotter.
SIMPLE REPAIRS:
*Snags: Cut the yarn off level with the surface.
Do not pull. It won't go away.
*Seams: Reseal with hot melt glue gun. Don't
over apply the glue. Trim off any yarns that may snag in the
vacuum cleaner.
*Cigarette burns: Trim off the black part and
glue in some fuzz or new yarn with a hot melt glue gun.
SOME THINGS YOU CAN'T REMOVE
*Wear: Cleaning may improve the appearance,
but wear is permanent.
*Matting and crushing: Cleaning may improve
the appearance, but matting is permanent.
*Traffic lanes: Apply a traffic lane cleaner
and brush in before cleaning. For the best results allow the
chemical to dwell five to seven minutes before you begin the
cleaning process.
*Color Loss: You may be able to spot dye a
small area. Check out an art supply store for a wide selection
of colored felt markers.
ODORS:
You have to find the source and remove it.
If not, all you can hope to do is mask the odor with an odor
that smells better. Use your nose, it's the best tool available.
Once you find the source, use a spotter to clean the area
and then apply a deodorizer to neutralize the odor so it doesn't
return.
No guarantees here. It depends on what you're
trying to remove, how much there is of it, what it's on or
in, how far it has sunk in and how long it has been there.
TOOLS AND CHEMICALS FOR SPOTTING
Commercial spotting kits: Generally overkill
and a waste of money.
General Purpose Spotter: Every custodian should
have this type of product and be trained in its proper use.
(Editor's Note: Healthy Clean Building's Favorite is "H2ORANGE2"
# 117" Concentrate
A Natural Solvent Based Spotter: A citrus-based
solvent is most common. Do not over apply, a couple of drops
will do. Wear your gloves.
Mini Wet Vacuum: Most hardware stores sell
a one-gallon wet vacuum for under $60.00 that is ideal for
carpet spotting and many small cleaning jobs around your facility.
White wash cloths or face towels: These are
best for carpet spotting.
A sharp razor blade scraper: Great for trimming
snags and tufts that are above the surface. Do not pull snags;
cut them off level with the surface. Be careful with bladesblood
as it is also difficult to remove.
CONSTANT ATTENTION TO SPOT REMOVAL
Daily removal of spots is required. If you
wait, the spot may become permanent, and shortly, you'll have
too many spots to do in a short time period. Stay on top of
carpet spotting in your assigned area. Keep a general-purpose
spotter handy and the tools you need. Set aside some time
each day for spot removal, or remove them as you complete
your regular room cleaning.
Some spots will come back through a wicking
action. Repeat the spot removal process and place a towel
and a book over them. If this doesn't work, wipe the yarn
tips with a clear dry solvent or try the same with a general-purpose
spotter. Spray the spotter on the rag, not on the carpet,
to avoid over wetting that may be causing wicking.
NO GUARANTEES
You're a facilities professional,... not a
magician. Not all spots will come out. Some are permanent
stains. It's important to know the difference.
Follow the procedures and tips above and stop
before you cause damage.
Continue your training. There is a lot more
to spotting than I could cover in this short article, but
at least you have the basics. Start by spotting a small area
the size of a quarter. This will keep you out of trouble and
save you time. Applying more of a product that is not working
will not remove the spot. Test, Test, Test. It's the safe
and professional approach. Good luck, good spotting and keep
it clean.
