Allergy Consumer Review Issue #68

Added by: Editor

Dear Everyone,

Given that so many people have been dealing with flood cleanup after a slew of hurricanes, and trying to prevent mold from growing in their homes and offices, I have gathered together some information that I think will be of special interest to those subscribers in disaster areas. Our office is receiving calls daily from residents of the Southern part of the USA asking what to do for hurricane cleanup. We are happy to give you advice, as we are very experienced in what equipment you will need, and some of this equipment, such as dehumidifiers, air cleaners, steam cleaners, and wet and dry vacuums is available for disaster relief reimbursement through FEMA grants. If you are one of these people involved in hurricane cleanup, I can only extend our deepest sympathies and we will do whatever we can do to help you.

On another note, as an allergy sufferer with a compromised immune system, I am somewhat concerned at the short supply of flu vaccine. I have been fortunate in recent years since I have been taking the flu shot, to avoid catching other people’s coughs, colds and flu, which is so easy to catch in an office environment or from one’s family. I expect many of you are on the flu shot waiting list hoping that you get a leftover shot after the really high-risk group get theirs. I hate sitting around feeling a bit helpless so I am shoring up the air purifiers at home and work so as to minimize airborne germs, knowing full well that the flu shot would be my first choice.

We have announced some really nifty new products in this issue, so do not miss reading about them in our new product round up section.

Last but not least, our new full length Fall/Winter catalog has been published, so if you are not on our mailing list, do not forget to request yours here. We are very proud of it and have been getting compliments about it already.

Keep Well,

In This Issue

New Products
Dealing With Mold in Your Home
“Fact Sheet: Flood Cleanup – Avoiding Indoor Air Quality Problems”
Check Flood-Damaged Appliances
Sanitize Dishes, Pans after Flood
After the Flood . . . Dry Things Out
Flood-Soaked Bedding Needs Sanitation
Walls Need Special Care After Flood
Cleaning Flooded Wood Floors and Woodwork
Check Furniture for Flood Damage
Shop Talk
New Products Round-Up
Allergy Relief Products

Mercia Tapping
President / CEO AllergyBuyersClub.com
Contact Information

Disclaimer: Product and solution information reflect information available at the time of publication, including prices, availability, and reviews. To get the latest information, contact us or join our newsletter.

New
Products

1. We have a new silk-covered, simply luscious quilted coverlet for your bed. With color choices like plum and pink among others, this coverlet makes a statement. I would take one home in a heartbeat, but for my conviction that my Siamese cats would immediately throw up on this gorgeous bedding (Siamese cats have weak stomachs) and then I would be fit to be tied. If you do not have pets who love to jump on your bed and might get sick, then take a look at these! From $130 for Throws and from $440 for Silk-covered Coverlets.

2. If your sinus headaches grip your face like the aliens have got you, you may be ready to join the band of hardy and intrepid devotees of the Grossan HydroPulse nasal irrigation system. This system is painless and well documented to be the best thing for sinus sufferers since sliced bread. Our merchandising manager has one and swears by it. If you are the kind of person who does not mind sticking their fingers into their eyes for contacts, you will do just fine. And if the sinus pain is bad enough, you will get over your aversion to sticking a water pik up your nose. $97.00

3. IQAir Compact Plus Air Purifier. These have now arrived and are exclusive to AllergyBuyersClub.com. This isa smaller-sized air purifier than the IQAIR HealthPro Plus because it has two filters instead of three, but it has almost the same cleaning range. In this air purifier the legendary IQAir Prefilter is combined with 2 lbs of carbon so it does give some odor removal protection although not the model we would recommend for heavy odor removal and VOC problems. The best news is that it costs only $30 more at $649.00 than the standard IQAir Compact and far less than the $795.00 price of the best selling IQAir HealthPro Plus. We think number of people will really jump on this option if allergen removal is their primary concern. $649.00.

4. Air-O-Swiss Humidifier. This is my favorite new pick for the humidifier season. This is the humidifier that can blow hot or cold, perfect for those of you who cannot make up your minds as to which kind of humidifier is best for you. It is almost silent – if I said “completely silent,” someone somewhere would disagree, so “almost” is near “entirely”! What’s more a new patented ionic silver stick makes for a cleaning schedule which is much easier than others. I predict that this humidifier will be our new best seller this winter. $140.00.

5. Apollo Travel Light. A breakthrough in SAD light systems. This uses the new Bluelight technologyand is even more effective than traditional SAD light products. When I first saw this new light in our office, I pounced on it and said “What’s that?” When I was told all about it, it immediately went on my holiday gift list – for myself you understand! Wonderful to take with you everywhere – home, office and hotels and can stand in as a super strength desk light. $249.95.

6. Whole house water purification system by Aquasana. I am a great proponent of the advisability of using a whole house system. In the end you save on filter replacements, and you can filter more applications than your shower and drinking water. For instance, dishes are cleaner with filtered water, food tastes better cooked in filtered water, and it is the only way to get filtered water effectively in your bath. $843.15.

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Dealing With Mold in Your Home
By Mercia Tapping

The health problems that occur as a result of mold can be felt immediately (acute) or can be longer term (chronic). The immediate problems that are often associated with exposure to high levels of mold include the following:

Mild or severe headaches
Itching eyes and breathing difficulties
Difficulty in concentration.

If someone removes himself or herself from the mold source in what usually is known as a “sick building” these symptoms usually disappear shortly thereafter.

There are also chronic conditions, which are associated with high levels of mold exposure. These are often quite difficult to diagnose and patients have often been accused of hypochondria. These chronic conditions include:

Asthma
Allergic Rhinitis
Pneumonia

What is disturbing is that these conditions may not go away immediately or ever even after the person is removed from the mold source and indeed their condition may even worsen. The mycotoxins emitted by mold spores have been postulated to be particularly toxic and research is currently underway to pinpoint the disease and mycotoxin link.

How do you know you might have mold?

A quick visual tour of your house might give you some clues

Is their any visible mold growing in bathrooms, window sills, books, shoes or walls? Are there water stains on the ceiling or walls?
Is there peeling paint? This often occurs after intense condensation. Are the wood floors warping?

Mold Allergies: Decrease your Exposure to Mold

While conventional wisdom recommends opening the windows to increase ventilation this well may not be enough to eliminate or prevent mold from growing. Firstly, the outside air may well be more humid and increase the indoor humidity. Secondly, the outdoor air at certain times of the year is laden with pollen or tree molds.

We recommend keeping the indoor humidity at about 50%, which is below the threshold
where most molds are known to flourish. Monitor moisture levels with a hygrometer.
Your first line of defense is to correct all leaks sources – roof, gutter, plumbing and drainage problems.
It is critically important for you to clean out your humidifier, air conditioner and dehumidifier according to manufacturer instructions. Some humidifiers are more vulnerable to producing the conditions for mold spore production so choose carefully.
Use a low temperature dehumidifier in your basement to keep mold at bay. Basements are notorious as mold breeding grounds.
Avoid using carpeting in your basement. Sooner or later you will either have a flood from the outside or a water heater will break. Either way you will end up having to throw that carpet out.
We believe that bare earth basement floors are mold problems waiting to happen. At the very least cover the area with a heavy plastic vapor barrier. Better yet use a dehumidifier and put concrete on the floor.
An exhaust fan in a crawl space or basement during warm weather is helpful. Dehumidification is even better
Keep a clean house and use hepa vacuums and steam cleaners to achieve that goal.
We have found that we are healthier without houseplants, which tend to have molds in the potting soil.
Replace insulation materials, which have become wet and choose allergen friendly materials.
Cooking pots should be covered so as to contain steam, which can increase humidity the basic conditions for mold.
Use exhaust fans both in bathrooms and kitchen and keep those fans running for 10 to 15 minutes after cooking or bathing.
Wet laundry evaporates and puts moisture into the air, so do not hang it to dry inside.
Always vent your clothes dryer to the outside.
Using an air conditioner in summer definitely reduces the humidity in your home but a dehumidifier is much more energy efficient.
It is important to heat all the rooms in your house during winter to prevent mold growth especially the basement where condensation is likely to form on cold walls and floors.
Clean your refrigerator drip pan and rubber sealing gaskets so that mold does not grow where condensate forms. Vapor steam cleaners are especially helpful as a tool here.
If you are painting your basement, or where walls are cold, a mold inhibiting paint is helpful.
If you are building a new house and have damp or green lumber some way for the lumber to dry out is essential. The most forward thinking builders are now using a dehumidifier during the construction process. A responsible builder will also recommend you use a dehumidifier after construction as the concrete will “sweat” in a new building.
Triple or double thermo paned windows help with preventing condensation which gives rise to mold growth conditions. A storm window works best when installed on the inside.
Mold in bathrooms can be kept at bay with the diligent use of steam cleaners, which kills mold growth.
Buy mold resistant shower curtains or clean the runners in the shower doors, which is a hiding place for mold.
Use tile in your bathrooms and never carpets. If you have bath mats wash them in very hot water on a regular basis.

While prevention is better than cure, room hepa air purifiers, air sterilizers and high-efficiency furnace filters will catch the remaining mold spores.

Central vacuuming

For additional product information on mold remediation products go to our Mold Solution Center and for more informational articles go to our Mold Center.

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Fact Sheet: Flood Cleanup – Avoiding Indoor Air Quality Problems
The following article is courtesy of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency – Indoor Air Publications.

Office of Radiation and Indoor Air (6609J)
EPA Publication No. 402-F-93-005
Revised October 2003 Introduction

During a flood cleanup, the indoor air quality in your home or office may appear to be the least of your problems. However, failure to remove contaminated materials and to reduce moisture and humidity can present serious long-term health risks. Standing water and wet materials are a breeding ground for microorganisms, such as viruses, bacteria, and mold. They can cause disease, trigger allergic reactions, and continue to damage materials long after the flood.

This fact sheet discusses problems caused by microbial growth, as well as other potential effects of flooding, on long-term indoor air quality and the steps you can take to lessen these effects. Although the information contained here emphasizes residential flood cleanup, it is also applicable to other types of buildings.

Prepare for Cleanup

Read Repairing Your Flooded Home prepared by the Federal Emergency Management Agency and the American Red Cross. The booklet discusses flood safety issues and can save your life. The booklet also contains detailed information on proper methods for cleaning up your home. You should also consult the wealth of information on the FEMA and American Red Cross sites on the subject.

An EPA fact sheet we found provides additional information not covered in the original FEMA/American Red Cross booklet on indoor air quality concerns related to flooding (however, because this fact sheet was prepared in 1993, it is more than likely that FEMA and the Red Cross and the American Lung Association do have more up-to-date information and resources available which you should consult). Many of the methods used for general cleanup, as detailed in the booklet, are the same as those used to avoid problems with indoor air quality. For brevity, we have not provided detail on the general methods used for cleanup here. This fact sheet is intended to be used in conjunction with the FEMA/American Red Cross booklet and resources.

Avoid Problems from Microbial Growth

a) Remove Standing Water
Standing water is a breeding ground for microorganisms, which can become airborne and be inhaled. Where floodwater contains sewage or decaying animal carcasses, infectious disease is of concern. Even when flooding is due to rain water, the growth of microorganisms can cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. For these health reasons, and to lessen structural damage, all standing water should be removed as quickly as possible.

b) Dry Out Your Home
Excess moisture in the home is an indoor air quality concern for three reasons:

High humidity and moist materials provide ideal environments for the excessive growth of microorganisms that are always present in the home. This may result in additional health concerns such as allergic reactions.
Long term increases in humidity in the home can also foster the growth of dust mites. Dust mites are a major cause of allergic reactions and asthma.
See Step 4, Dry Out Your Home, of the American Red Cross/FEMA booklet, Repairing Your Flooded Home , on steps that should be taken to open up and dry out ceilings, walls, and floors in the home.

Be patient. The drying out process could take several weeks, and growth of microorganisms will continue as long as humidity is high. If the house is not dried out properly, a musty odor, signifying growth of microorganisms, can remain long after the flood.

c) Remove Wet Materials
It can be difficult to throw away items in a home, particularly those with sentimental value. However, keeping certain items that were soaked by water may be unhealthy. Some materials tend to absorb and keep water more than others. In general, materials that are wet and cannot be thoroughly cleaned and dried within 24-48 hours should be discarded, as they can remain a source of microbial growth.

Information on the types of water-damaged materials that should be discarded are provided in Step 4, Dry Out Your Home, of the American Red Cross/FEMA booklet, Repairing Your Flooded Home .

The booklet suggests that you may be able to dry out and save certain building materials (for example, wallboard, fiberglass insulation, and wall-to-wall carpeting that were soaked only with clean rain water). You may, however, want to consider removing and replacing them to avoid indoor air quality problems. Because they take a long time to dry, they may be a source of microbial growth. For information on mold prevention and cleanup, visit The EPA’s Mold Resources or call IAQINFO at 800-438-4318.

In addition, fiberboard, fibrous insulation, and disposable filters should be replaced, if they are present in your heating and air conditioning system and have contacted water. (If a filter was designed to be cleaned with water and was in contact with clean rain water only, ensure that it is thoroughly cleaned before reinstalling.)

Avoid Problems from the Use of Cleaners and Disinfectants
The cleanup process involves thorough washing and disinfecting of the walls, floors, closets, shelves, and contents of the house. In most cases, common household cleaning products and disinfectants are used for this task. FEMA also suggests the use of disinfectants and sanitizers on the duct work for the heating and air conditioning system, if it has been flooded.

Disinfectants and sanitizers contain toxic substances. The ability of chemicals in other household products used for cleaning to cause health effects varies greatly, from those with no known health effect to those that are highly toxic. Read and follow label instructions carefully, and provide fresh air by opening windows and doors. If it is safe for you to use electricity and the home is dry, use fans both during and after the use of disinfecting, cleaning, and sanitizing products.

Be careful about mixing household cleaners and disinfectants together. Check labels for cautions on this. Mixing certain types of products can produce toxic fumes and result in injury and even death.

Avoid Carbon Monoxide Poisoning
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless gas that can be lethal at high levels. Carbon monoxide levels can build up rapidly if certain types of combustion devices (for example, gasoline-powered generators, camp stoves and lanterns, or charcoal-burning devices) are used indoors. Do not use combustion devices designed for outdoor use indoors.

Avoid Problems from Airborne Asbestos and Lead Dust
Elevated concentrations of airborne asbestos can occur if asbestos-containing materials present in the home are disturbed. Airborne asbestos can cause lung cancer and mesothelioma, a cancer of the chest and abdominal linings. If you know or suspect that your home contains asbestos, contact the EPA TSCA Assistance Information Service at (202) 554-1404 for information on steps you should take to avoid exposure.

Lead is a highly toxic metal which produces a range of adverse health effects, particularly in young children. Disturbance or removal of materials containing lead-based paint may result in elevated concentration of lead dust in the air. If you know or suspect that your home contains lead-based paint, contact the EPA lead hotline at 800 LEAD-FYI for information on steps you should take to avoid exposure.

Copies of this fact sheet, and other information on indoor air quality, are available from:

Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse (IAQ INFO)
P.O. Box 37133
Washington, DC 20013-7133
Phone: 800 438-4318 or (703) 356-4020
(fax) (703) 356-5386 or e-mail at: iaqinfo@aol.com

Links to Additional Information

The Federal Emergency Management Agency
Publications are available from:
FEMA
Publication Storage and Distribution
P.O. Box 2012
8241 Sandy Court, Suite A
Jessup, MD 20794-2012
Phone: 800-480-2520
Fax: 301-362-5335

Centers for Disease Control (CDC) – Key Facts About Hurricane Recovery

For additional product information on mold remediation products go to our Mold Solution Center and for more informational articles go to our Mold Center.

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Check Flood-Damaged Appliances
By Mary Yearns, Iowa State Extension

Reproduced with Permission

It’s hard to predict when heavy or excessive rain may cause flooding in your home. If your home sustains flood damage, your electrical system and electrical appliances need to be thoroughly checked by experts, says Mary Yearns, Iowa State University Extension housing specialist. “Don’t plug any appliances into outlets until the wiring has been inspected,” Yearns says.

Appliances that have had working parts submerged in water should be serviced. Running equipment before it is properly cleaned could seriously damage it.

Meanwhile, you can clean the hard surfaces of your appliances.

When removing gritty deposits, rinse your cloth in water frequently to avoid scratching enamel or metal surfaces.
To remove odors from freezers and refrigerators, wash the inside of the cabinet and the plastic gasket that seals the door with a heavy-duty cleaner and water. Rinse with water and dry. If the odor remains, wash with a solution of one teaspoon baking soda to each quart of warm water.

After they’ve been serviced, washers and dryers that have been immersed in floodwater will need to be sanitized. To disinfect the washer, pour chlorine bleach into the empty machine and complete a 15-minute cycle at the hot setting. Unplug the dryer and wipe all areas of the drum and dryer door with a cloth dipped in bleach and water solution. Leave the dryer door open until all parts are thoroughly dry. Then plug in and resume normal use.

Yearns recommends wearing rubber gloves for all clean-up work.

For additional product information on mold remediation products go to our Mold Solution Center and for more informational articles go to our Mold Center.

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Sanitize Dishes, Pans after Flood
By Mary Yearns, Iowa State Extension

Reproduced with Permission

Dishes, pots and pans that have been covered by floodwater should be carefully inspected, washed and disinfected before they are used again, advises Mary Yearns, Iowa State University Extension housing specialist.

First, inspect all items, she says. Discard any items made of porous material, such as wood, plastic or rubber. Any dishes with deep cracks should be thrown away as well. These items can’t be sanitized.

Wash the remaining items in hot detergent solution, using a brush, if necessary, to remove dirt. If handles from frying pans and saucepans are removable, clean them separately. Equipment that can be taken apart should be cleaned in pieces.

After sudsing and brushing, rinse in clear hot water. Then immerse in a chlorine solution to sanitize. Use a solution of two tablespoons of liquid household bleach to a gallon of water.

To sanitize metal items, boil them in water for at least two minutes.

Let all items air-dry, Yearns recommends. Do not dry them with a dishtowel.

Kitchen items made of iron probably will be rusted. Remove rust by scouring with steel wool. After scouring and sanitizing iron items, season them before use to prevent food from sticking to them. Lightly coat the cooking surfaces with cooking oil and place them in an oven at 250 degrees F for two to three hours. The oil will seal the pores of the metal so food will not stick easily.

If cupboards and food preparation surfaces were in contact with floodwater, clean and sanitize them before storing the clean dishes, pots and pans, Yearns says. Wash the surfaces with hot detergent solution. Then sanitize them using a solution of two tablespoons of liquid household bleach to a gallon of water.

For additional product information on mold remediation products go to our Mold Solution Center and for more informational articles go to our Mold Center.

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After the Flood . . . Dry Things Out
By Mary Yearns, Iowa State Extension

Reproduced with Permission

Clothing and household textiles often become wet and soiled if houses or basements are flooded after a storm, said Mary Yearns, Iowa State University Extension housing specialist.

Yearns said many items must be cared for immediately, but deciding what to do first can be difficult.

The first step to cleaning mud-soiled clothing is rinsing and soaking in clear water to remove most of the muddy residue. If the washer still works, use the prerinse spin-out cycle. If the washer also is flooded, wring out as much excess moisture as possible.

“Don’t leave wet clothes piled in a heap,” Yearns said. “The moist, warm and dark conditions in the center of the heap will be perfect conditions for the growth of mildew.”

Mildew is a growing organism that can permanently damage most textile fibers–especially natural fibers such as cotton, linen, rayon and wool.

If outdoor lines are available and it is sunny, clothes can be rinsed and hung up outdoors to dry. Indoors, air conditioning will assist drying, but in its absence, dehumidifiers or fans may help speed the drying process.

“Drying clothes quickly, even with soil in them, will help prevent growth of mildew,” she said. “But drying in the dryer will not only mess up the dryer, it will also set the mud and other stains, making them more difficult to remove.”

Try to wash clothes and get them really clean using manageable-sized laundering loads, as soon as possible, Yearns said. Do light-colored items first to help avoid permanent staining.

Drycleanable clothes, if worth salvaging, should be sent to the drycleaner. The chemicals in the cleaning process and the high-temperature steam pressing will sanitize the clothing.

In general, for washable clothes, the same procedures that one might use for dirty baby diapers in normal circumstances should be followed with all clothing after a flood, Yearns said.

After soaking clothes in cold water to remove as much mud as possible, wash them in hot water with a heavy-duty detergent. Using about one-half cup of water conditioner will boost the detergent’s cleaning power.

Hot water and bleach are needed to reduce bacterial contamination that may have occurred. Add an all-fabric bleach when washing most colored clothing. For colorfast or white clothes, add a cup of liquid chlorine bleach to the wash cycle, unless the water contains a lot of iron. Iron in the water will stain the clothes if chlorine bleach is used, Yearns said. If iron is a problem, Pinesol may be an appropriate sanitizer.

“High temperature dryer drying also will help sanitize clothing, assuming it is clean after laundering,” she said. “Another less recognized sanitation strategy is pressing with a hot iron. This may be helpful for some cotton clothes and bed linens.”

Clothes that are not completely dried are good candidates for mildew–when conditions are damp and warm. Sometimes, clothes can be salvaged by putting them in the freezer until there is time to deal with them properly.

For additional product information on mold remediation products go to our Mold Solution Center and for more informational articles go to our Mold Center.

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Flood-Soaked Bedding Needs Sanitation
By Mary Yearns, Iowa State Extension

Reproduced with Permission

Families cannot always move furnishings such as bedding out of danger of possible contamination from germ-laden floodwaters, said Lois Warme, Iowa State University Extension art and design specialist.

Many experiences of Iowa families over the years have shown that getting the family to safety, plus collecting some items of clothing and important family documents, must come first. When flood victims are worried about shutting off electricity and protecting appliances and major furnishings, they do not have much time to move other items.

Cleaning flood-soaked bedding is not quite the same as doing the regular family wash or the semi-yearly cleaning of blankets, Warme said. Laundry appliances in a flood-soaked home generally are not in working condition, or at least they need attention and thorough cleaning before laundering “as usual.”

Bedding may be cleaned in a commercial laundry, using the large front-loading machine. Do not overload a washer or dryer. Large or heavy loads need space to move freely in the washer and dryer.

Here are tips for reclaiming flood-soaked bedding, all with emphasis on thorough sanitation since floodwaters are filthy and germ-laden.

For all bedding: Hang out to air and dry thoroughly; then brush to remove excess dirt and soil.

Blankets: Put wool blankets through a dry-cleaning process either at a commercial dry-cleaning plant or at a coin- operated facility. Shrinkage and thorough cleaning make wool blankets difficult to wash. For blankets that are washable (rayon, acrylic, cotton), put them through two complete washing cycles. Air-dry or use an automatic dryer at proper temperature settings.

Sheets and pillow cases: Put through two complete washing cycles. Bleach using diluted liquid chlorine bleach to help kill germs. Follow your regular drying procedure.

Quilts and comforters: Wash or dry-clean depending on fiber content of the bedding. Usually, it’s best to wash cotton quilts.

Pillows: If pillows are foam rubber or stuffed with feathers or fiberfill, put them through a regular washing cycle using sudsy lukewarm water. Do not overload the machine. Two pillows usually make a normal load.

Check the ticking on the feather pillow to see if it is tight. If it is, do not take the feathers out of the pillow. If the ticking is worn, transfer the feathers to a muslin bag larger than the ticking. Sew up the bag, wash feathers in it; then dry, and put them back in the ticking.

Stop the washing process mid-way and turn the pillows over by hand. Plan to use a non-chlorine disinfectant in the wash or rinse water for pillows containing foam, down or feathers. Use bleach on fiberfill pillows.

Air-dry foam rubber pillows. There is danger of fire if they are put in an automatic dryer. Feather pillows may be dried in an automatic dryer at a low temperature setting or may be air-dried. Air-dried pillows can be fluffed up by hand as they are drying.

Do not wash kapok and cotton-filled pillows. The cotton filling will become lumpy because water disintegrates kapok. These pillows probably should not be reclaimed.

Mattresses: Foam-rubber and urethane-foam mattresses are mildew-proof and odorless. The cover can be removed and machine-washed (or you may want to discard it and buy a new cover). The foam mattress part can be thoroughly washed with a garden hose. Squeeze a detergent and water solution through the foam if possible.

Reconditioning of other types of mattresses is too difficult to do at home. For a good innerspring mattress, check with a nearby commercial renovating company to see if it is worth reclaiming. Check cost of renovation against replacement cost. As a general rule, inexpensive mattresses are not worth the expense of reclaiming and should be discarded.

For additional product information on mold remediation products go to our Mold Solution Center and for more informational articles go to our Mold Center.

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Walls Need Special Care After Flood
By Mary Yearns, Iowa State Extension

Reproduced with Permission

Walls need special care following contact with floodwaters, said Lois Warme, Iowa State University Extension art and design specialist. Plastered walls and wallpaper need different treatments than painted walls or concrete block walls.

Walls may be difficult to clean and dry. If insulated, the baseboards and some siding may need to be removed to ventilate wall cavities, Warme said.

In some cases, insulation may also need to be removed, dried or replaced. Allow at least two months before applying paint because paint applied to damp walls will later blister and peel.

Plastered walls and wallpaper can be cleaned without replacing the paper, Warme said. Allow plaster to dry thoroughly before washing it. Brush off any loose surface dirt.

Use mild soap or a nonsudsing commercial cleaner to wash a painted wall. Warme suggests using one bucket of cleaning solution, another bucket containing clean water for rinsing, and large sponges for cleaning and rinsing.

“Always start washing a wall at the bottom and work up,” she said. “Starting at the top will result in water running down over the soiled area and streaking it, but water running over a clean area can be wiped off without damage.”

Wash an easily reached area without changing position, then rinse the area immediately. Wash the next area, overlapping the first one, and proceed until the wall is finished. Ceilings should be done last. Badly stained walls require redecorating.

After walls are cleaned and before wallpaper is replaced, paint or spray walls with a quaternary disinfectant, available from janitor or dairy supply outlets. Add one ounce or two tablespoons of the disinfectant to two gallons of water. This will make the walls mildew resistant. The same solution may be applied to washable wallpapers.

Cleaning basements with concrete walls and floors requires a slightly different cleaning strategy, Warme said.

First bail or pump out water and remove mud from the floor, then remove mud and surface film on ceiling, walls and floor with a coarse brush or long-handled broom. Spray or wet ceiling and walls with lukewarm water, then scrub with hot soapsuds. Repeat if necessary, using clean soapy water. Rinse walls and ceiling with a clear, lukewarm water moistened brush.

To remove odors, use a chlorine bleach solution, or use common rock salt, or stock salt, Warme advises. Rock salt is a good disinfectant. Use 1 cup of rock salt per gallon of water. However, do not use rock salt on concrete surfaces–it will ruin concrete, causing it to chip, fragment or flake. You can use rock salt on dry wall or plaster–but be sure to rinse well afterward.

Sprinkle the salt over the basement and, if the floor is dry, spray or pour a small amount of water over the salt. This mixture of salt and water makes a strong brine that should be allowed to stand on the floor until dry. When dry, sweep and wash the floor with soapy water. This treatment will disinfect the basement as well as remove odors.

For additional product information on mold remediation products go to our Mold Solution Center and for more informational articles go to our Mold Center.

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Cleaning Flooded Wood Floors and Woodwork
By Mary Yearns, Iowa State Extension

Reproduced with Permission

After wood floors have been covered with wet mud and dirt, they need to be cleaned, flattened and possibly replaced, said Lois Warme, Iowa State University Extension art and design specialist.

“Cleaning is the first step to fixing flood-damaged woodwork,” Warme said. Before the house dries out, scrub all woodwork with a stiff, but nonabrasive brush, plenty of water and a non-sudsing detergent to remove mud and silt from corners, cracks and crevices.

Floodwaters may accumulate in partitions and exterior walls. Drain these areas as quickly as possible so insulation and structural members can dry. Remove the baseboard and drill holes between studs a few inches above the floor. After the insulation and frames have dried, replace the baseboard.

Use your regular cleaning product for a final, thorough floor washing. If refinishing is necessary, wait until moisture has dried from wood framings, between walls and floors, and backs of trim. This may take several months. Consult an experienced professional for refinishing, or follow instructions on standard brands of finishes and varnishes for household use.

Wood floors will probably be buckled, Warme said. Leave them alone to dry. Dry wood as fast as possible without aggravating shrinkage or deformation. Open windows and doors wide enough to give good ventilation on dry, non-humid days. Maintain a temperature of 50 degrees to 60 degrees Fahrenheit or higher in the house.

After the house is dry, there are several possibilities for renovating the floors. Some of the buckled flooring may be pounded into place with nails. Planing or sanding may remove some humps. Heavily planed floors may never be used uncovered, but a smoothed old floor can serve as a base for a resilient hard-surface floor covering.

Mold and mildew are common problems with wet wood. Badly infected wood must be replaced, Warme said. Clean mildewed floors, woodwork and other wooden parts by scrubbing with a mild alkali, such as washing soda or trisodium phosphate, using four to six tablespoons for each gallon of water. Rinse well with clear water after scrubbing with alkali and allow the wood to dry thoroughly. Then apply a mildew-resistant finish.

To remove mildew stains or mold from unpainted wood surfaces, wash with warm soapy water. If stains remain, add one-half tablespoon of trisodium phosphate or four tablespoons of borax to each gallon of warm soapy water. Dry by rubbing with an absorbent cloth.

If mold has grown into the wood under paint or varnish, the finish must be removed. Scrub the wood with an abrasive cleaner, then wash with a solution containing four to six tablespoons of trisodium phosphate and one cup of household chlorine bleach for each gallon of water. Sand the wood and bleach any remaining spots. Several applications of household bleach may be needed. Then wash the surface with a weak ammonia solution–two tablespoons of ammonia per quart of water. Finally, rinse the wood well with clear water. Let wood dry thoroughly and apply a wood preservative before repainting or refinishing.

For additional product information on mold remediation products go to our Mold Solution Center and for more informational articles go to our Mold Center.

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Check Furniture for Flood Damage
By Mary Yearns, Iowa State Extension

Reproduced with Permission

Families whose homes are flooded may find damage to their furniture even where it was stored out of the water’s reach. It’s wise to check the furniture now, said Lois Warme, Iowa State University Extension art and design specialist.

The dampness and excessive moisture in buildings surrounded by water may have led to some problems similar to those where water actually reached the furniture. The moisture may have caused light or dark spots on wooden furniture.

Many pieces of old wooden furniture with natural finishes need only to be cleaned to restore them. If the finish is smooth–not alligatored–use furniture cleanser-conditioner to clean wood and restore natural grain and color.

Furniture cleanser-conditioner can be made at home using the following “recipe.” Fill a glass container one-fourth full of gum turpentine (not steam distilled) and three-fourths full of commercially prepared boiled linseed oil. (Do not attempt to boil linseed oil at home.) Cover tightly. This mixture can be stored indefinitely.

The moisture may have caused light or dark spots on the furniture. To remove white spots, Warme said, rub the surface with a cloth dampened with spirits of camphor. In application, rub with the grain of the wood. A liquid made from laundry bleach–three tablespoons of laundry bleach to one quart of water–will bleach dark spots. Apply the liquid to the dark spot, and let it remain for 15 minutes. Then rinse it off and repeat the process if necessary. White toothpaste can be used on dark spots if the stain is not more than a few days old.

Furniture that was under water or that absorbed lots of moisture is likely to warp, Warme said. Veneered furniture that is badly warped is a difficult problem to handle at home. Consult your furniture dealer about it.

Overstuffed furniture fabric can be cleaned successfully at home, said Warme. You can prepare the cleaning solution by dissolving one cup of soap flakes in five cups of hot water. Let it cool until it is in a jellylike form, then beat with an egg beater until it’s frothy. Apply only the dry foam with a soft cloth or sponge, using a circular motion.

Dip a clean cloth in a pan of clean water, wring it out, and wipe all the lather from the furniture. Wring a second cloth dipped in another pan of clear water, and wipe the furniture again. Put the nap in the same direction. Faded fabric can be masked with a new slip cover.

If overstuffed furniture stood in water, it’s likely that you’ll need to clean any metal parts, Warme said. Remove rust with steel wool or sandpaper, and coat the metal with paraffin oil. If webbing or stuffing is decayed or odorous, the time to replace it is when the furniture is apart for cleaning.

For additional product information on mold remediation products go to our Mold Solution Center and for more informational articles go to our Mold Center.

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