Allergy Consumer Review Issue #52
Allergy Consumer Review Issue #52Dear Everyone,
In Boston we have lurched from months of snow, to weeks of rain and now to a 90-degree-plus heat wave. I have despaired that we will never see decent weather, and have resorted to playing golf with a tennis sweatband!
So, like most people recently I have been preoccupied with keeping cool and decided to put together some interesting tips and observations for you based on testing from the trenches in real life conditions. The timing was perfect; my husband has been moping, because when he wants to snuggle at night, all I can do is moan about how hot I feel. Last week during a heat wave when I placed my hands on my husband to demonstrate that I was not kidding about my body heat, he told me to empty the refrigerator and sit in it all night! We decided to participate in Allergy Buyers Club’s cooling test program since we seemed to be the perfect candidates. I was either losing sleep or ending up in the guest bedroom at garden level. I was crabby and my husband was feeling neglected. Does this sound familiar? If so, read onKeep Cool!
In This Issue
- Keeping Cool by Mercia Tapping
- How to Size your Air Conditioner needs by David Barnaby
- Portable Air Conditioners by Mercia Tapping
- Portable Air Conditioner TD8K – product review by Mercia Tapping
- Comfort-Aire 65 pint Low Temp Dehumidifier Updated Review by Bob Cobe
- Water Damage and Mold – Thad Godish Ph.D
- Basement Flooding – Thad Godish Ph.D
- Maintenance Tips for your Vapor Steam Cleaner
- Shop Talk Portable Air Conditioner TD8K – product review by Mercia Tapping
- Comfort-Aire 65 pint Low Temp Dehumidifier Updated Review by Bob Cobe
- Allergy Relief Products
Mercia Tapping
President / CEO AllergyBuyersClub.com
Contact Information
Disclaimer: Product and solution information reflect information available at the time of publication, including prices, availability, and reviews. To get the latest information, contact us or join our newsletter.
Keeping Cool
by Mercia Tapping
My biggest revelation this summer as I am monitoring temperature and humidity in my house and testing out various appliances, has been to notice that it is the humidity level that makes the greatest difference to my comfort level. When the humidity rises above 50% I start to get sweaty, crabby and uncomfortable and when it is 44% or less, I can feel quite comfortable even when the indoor temperature rises as high as 80 degrees. It was also surprising to me that the humidity in my air-conditioned house could get that high on the 2nd floor. This told me that in my bedroom, it was dust mite breeding time.
After consultation with our in-house staff, I decided that a SantaFe RX whole house dehumidifier on the top floor of my house was the ideal way to go. A Comfort-aire low temp dehumidifier would have been an inexpensive second choice. The reasons were that the Santa Fe has an enormous capacity (up to 3000 sq feet) was very quiet by comparison, had a built-in pump so I could drip the water out a window using a hose, and I could even attach a hepa filter to it as an option. I already knew from several years of selling this whole house dehumidifier that it is robust and got rave reviews from customers.
If I had a limited income, I would now buy a dehumidifier over any other appliance when it comes to the business of keeping cool.
Click here for more information on dehumidifiers
How To Size Your Air Conditioning Needs by David Barnaby, AllergyBuyersClub.com staff
Deciding on what size air conditioner you need is not as simple as it looks, but here are some of the factors that we suggest our customers consider. Take for instance an air conditioning unit rated by the manufacturer at 9000 BTUs, which based on normal conditions will cool an area up to 300 square feet with an average ceiling height of 8 feet. However, there are additional factors that can affect how much cooling is necessary to reduce the air temperature in the room to a satisfactory level and maintain it there.
For instance, you would need to add approximately 600 to 800 BTUs for each person in the room. Also, if you have computers running, motors, or lights on, it will add to the heat given off in a room and thus increase your cooling demands. In addition, if the room allows a great deal of sunlight to come in, this will add to the amount of cooling you will need. We recommend turning off unnecessary lights and leaving the shades down on windows on hot days. Ceiling fans can also make for your feeling cooler, although the temperature may remain the same.
Another important thing to consider when cooling an area is the humidity. For example, running your air conditioner on 65 degrees may be necessary for you to feel cool if the humidity is high in the room. However, if the humidity is controlled, let’s say between 40 and 50 percent, most people will find it too cold if the air conditioner cools the room down to 72 degrees. Many people now supplement their central air conditioning with dehumidifiers because the air conditioning units are either oversized for their area or they are the newer models that are designed to dehumidify less so as to attain a better EER energy rating. When an air conditioner dehumidifies the air, heat is given off by the condensation process and more BTUs are required to cool the air, therefore reducing the product’s energy rating. Without having separate dehumidification, it is necessary to set the thermostat way down to 65 degrees so it runs longer and dehumidifies the air. The problem is it ends up being too cold not to mention the energy used. Many people find they can set the thermostat on their central air conditioning on 75 to 80 degrees and be comfortable as long as the humidity is at a comfortable level.
See our comparison chart on our complete selection of portable air conditioners
Portable Air Conditioners by Mercia Tapping
Yes, we sell them, as they are perfect for allergy sufferers, since they do not breed mold. However, they are not the answer to everyone’s prayers in the heat wave, but they do have their good points. For those people who own their own homes with central air and heat there is nothing better than central air conditioning. It is one of the things that has helped me most control my own allergies. As soon as I moved into a house with central air conditioning my allergies improved a hundred fold. Nothing in my opinion does better than central air conditioning.
However, like many people with central air conditioning, it does not cool the second floor so well and during the heat wave summer weeks, we always need some extra spot cooling. So I end up begging my husband for days (sometimes weeks) to install the window AC in our bedroom and I cringe as the window frame gets butchered with drilling, screws and duct tape. A portable air conditioner is an alternative. However, there are some caveats.
In our opinion, portable air conditioners are not as effective yet as regular window air conditioners. They should be used only in situations where regular window air conditioners will not fit or where there is another compelling reason to buy them. The portable air conditioners on our site are the best performing and most reliable of the brands currently available. However in our testing of comparably rated BTU window air conditioners to portable ones, the window ones were the clear winners. Portable air conditioners do best to spot cool hot areas in centrally air-conditioned homes and only in moderately sized rooms with eight-foot ceilings.
We advise our customers if they need to buy a portable air conditioner, to buy the maximum BTU rated machine available, but alternatively to invest in a first class dehumidifier which we have found is the driving component to contribute to people’s comfort level. Our best-rated home dehumidifier is the Santa Fe.
Portable Air Conditioner TD 8K – Product Review
by Mercia Tapping
Introduction
Make no mistake about it, portable air conditioners are no substitute for central air conditioning, but like conventional window air conditioners, they are good for spot cooling and they dehumidify the air. In addition, they offer some interesting advantages. We tried out one recently in the toughest of conditions; A 90 degree plus week in Boston with the humidity level off the charts. The air conditioner was used in a 350 sq ft bedroom with 8-foot ceilings. It was used in a room which was “centrally air conditioned” but where the temperature was initially 81 degrees and humidity 51%.
Pluses
- Compared to the annual “get down on ones knees and beg one’s husband” to install the heavy window air conditioner, we installed the window duct kit with lightening speed, simplicity and convenience. What’s more, the usual desecration of the window with endless duct tape, screws and holes just magically disappeared. If for nothing else, in order to avoid our usual annual air conditioning hassles, this unit was worth it.
- We estimated that the cooling ability of this machine was no worse or better than most window air conditioners. It seemed to pull the humidity down in the room about 5-7% and the temperature 3 to 5%. The overall effect was certainly a distinct improvement in comfort level. This air conditioner is on castors so it can be stored quite neatly in a closet and wheeled out when needed. What a relief!
- We were amazed at how much water this air conditioner pulled out of the air- about one gallon every 6 hours – which made a huge difference to the comfort level in the room. The plastic container for the water had a convenient handle and was easy to empty.
- The unit was no louder than a regular air conditioner, which is to say, not quiet but at a sound level to be expected. My husband hates noise, so he complained as per usual while I thought it was fine, noise wise. Putting the fan onto oscillating mode was one of the best features of this machine. We could pull the unit out away from the wall and receive a nice icy cold blast when desired.
- The connecting venting hose for the duct kit was expandable and contractible, which added to its neatness.
Minuses
- The machine switches itself off when the jug is full of water. It lasted 6 hours and we wished it had lasted for 8 hours.
- Read the manual carefully and be sure to put it on “cool mode”. We skipped the manual and then wondered why the air blowing out did not seem cool enough.
- Be careful when reinserting the jug to catch the dehumidified water extracted from the air. The arrow is scarcely visible and for about 3 hours we dehumidified water all over the floor. Our fault for being careless, but it was a mess.
- We did test this machine out in the most adverse of conditions but I personally was a bit disappointed that the temperature could not be brought down further. You need to understand that this is all a matter of personal comfort. My husband said the unit was making him too chilly, while I felt it was still too warm. We both agreed that the decrease in humidity was even more important than temperature.
Summary
After diligently critiquing this air conditioner all week, we initially looked at each other and decided this one was a keeper. We were now spoiled. There was no way we wanted to lug that heavy window air conditioner out of the closet and butcher the window again. The window air conditioner could just languish in the closet for another year! We did end up thinking that for convenience, we might want to try using a hose to drip the water out the window but never got that far.
However, urged by our office to do comparative testing, we reluctantly removed the portable AC unit and put in our conventional window air conditioning unit with the same BTUs. The window unit was much more effective under comparable conditions. It dehumidified much faster and achieved the required “freezing room” feel to our bedroom in less than two hours. I was able to sleep with some covers over me for the first time in two weeks. But we went through the usual hassles of imploring for a little male muscle, lugging it out of the closet, and damaging the window frame. Make your own choice.
The TD 8K Portable Air Conditioner is available in our online store.
Comfort-Aire 65 pint Low Temp Dehumidifier Updated Review by Bob Cobe, AllergyBuyersClub.com staff
As part of our “real life” testing procedures that AllergyBuyersClub.com conducts, I have been testing the Comfort-Aire 65 pint low temperature dehumidifier in my humid 1000 square foot basement.
Prior to my testing this unit, I had been testing 2 smaller units from other manufacturers that were each rated to do about 500 square feet each. Even with both of these smaller units running at the same time, I had been unable to maintain the humidity level below 57% even with both units running almost continuously.
In fact the lowest reading I had been able to reach, but not maintain, had been 53%.
I then set up the Comfort-Aire 65 pint low temp dehumidifier for constant draining with the easy-to-use draining tube that is included, put the fan speed on low, and turned the unit on along with just one of the smaller units. Within 6 hours the humidity had dropped to 43%. So I turned off the smaller dehumidifier unit since it was clearly not needed, and just left the Comfort-Aire running. The Comfort-Aire was set for 50% humidity and has been maintaining a 50% level on low fan speed ever since. I have also tested the Comfort-Aire dehumidifier with the setting at 45% and it seems to maintain that level as well, but since I only need to keep the humidity at 50% to prevent mold, I have reset it to run at 50% to save electricity. The unit is relatively quiet and the fan and compressor both shut off when the humidity level has been reached. It is the best residential basement dehumidifier I have tested.
The Comfort-Aire 65 pint low temperature dehumidifier is available in our online store.
Water Damage And Mold by Thad Godish, Ph.D
Question
I live in a home built in 1961 in Virginia. I recently discovered water damage to our interior wall framing and plasterboard, from what I suspect to be an old plumbing leak. I found it because, in an adjacent linen closet to our downstairs shower, the skim coat on the plaster walls was breaking off and we noticed that the lower portion of the wall had been plastered and the baseboards had been replaced by the previous owner. Also when I checked the plumbing access panel upstairs to this area in our bedroom, I saw some wood and plaster wallboard that has areas that appear to be discolored gray to black from water and, on top of it, a white residue that feels soft like talcum powder (rather than like sand).
We suspect that the water damage occurred at least 10 years ago because the previous owners had remodeled both bathrooms and the new areas look fine. We are having a structural engineer come look at the area, because there are some cracks on the upstairs walls near this area. So what I am wondering is, aside from structural reinforcement/repairs that may be needed, to address IAQ and allergy issues, how do I decide what wood and plaster board needs to be removed versus left alone versus maybe encapsulated by paint or some other treatment? Is there a moisture level that I should be looking for with a moisture meter? Is it effervescence or mold? I can’t seem to find a moisture inspector in my area – what type of professional do I look for to help with this and what qualifications should they have?
This project could involve significant plaster board removal and interior wall reconstruction, and I want to know whether this is truly needed or whether I can encapsulate the affected areas since the water leak no longer exists.
-Alison, Virginia
Answer
Such plumbing leaks (which are often slow) are quite common. In fact, if most homeowners were to look hard enough, they would likely find some similar damage/mold infestation particularly in homes 10 years old or older.
Based on what you describe, it is suggestive that the plumbing leak which apparently was remediated, continued after the remediation. The white residue is likely to be gypsum. It may have effloresced from the wallboard (by the action of water) or may have been generated in the remediation.
The gray discoloration is likely due to mold such as Cladosporium, the blacker mold may be Stachybotrys.
The area in question needs to be carefully opened up for inspection before one can make any remediation recommendations. The plumbing leak needs to be found (if it is still continuing) and corrected. Wood materials in many cases can be brushed, vacuumed and sealed. Gypsumboard should be removed and replaced. Such remediation should be conducted by an experienced remediation contractor to ensure that mold is not dispersed into the living areas of your house.
I recommend that you look in your yellow pages under Ecological and Environmental Services. There are likely to be many IAQ/mold services consultants listed. Unfortunately, most individuals who provide such services are relatively new to it (less than 5 years of experience). Qualifications? There are none. Just about any one can claim to be an expert and at this time most “experts” are still in their early to mid learning curves. In theory, a certified industrial hygienist should be better than most. However, many in this profession are also early into learning the mold/moisture trade.
June 9, 2003
Indoor Environmental Quality (2000), Thad Godish PhD
See our Mold Solution Buyers Guide for more cleaning and prevention methods to reduce mold.
Basement Flooding
by Thad Godish, Ph.D
Question
Our basement had some flooding -just enough to get the carpet wet. The cleaning company said it is better to just replace the carpet than try to clean and dry it. Is that true?
-Todd , Ohio
Answer
In many cases it would be better to replace the carpeting rather than try to clean it and dry it. In many cases where the amount of wetting is small and one acts quickly enough (within 48 hours), one can clean and save carpet. If the carpet is relatively new (<10 years old), it is likely to be made of all synthetic material. Such material cannot serve as a food source for mold.
If mold does grow on such carpeting (and it is not unusual), it is because of the organic matter that has accumulated in it. If one uses deep extraction cleaning one can save a carpet even it is already fuzzy. I know of a couple of such cases in school and other buildings where carpeting was successfully remediated and thus saved.
When carpet is cleaned after a flood, many remediators/cleaners apply a biocide as a final cleaning procedure. These usually work very well and post-cleaning airborne spore counts are very low.
On two different occasions occupants reported hoarseness, chest tightness after the flooding/remediation. These symptoms are not typical of mold. In one case (not a school) I measured significant concentrations of acrolein, a potent mucous membrane irritant. Some common biocides work by producing formaldehyde as a decomposition product. Some contain 50% glutaraldehyde, a very potent mucous membrane and pulmonary irritant.
The use of biocides for post -flooding remediation is problematic. It virtually eliminates the potential for mold growth and human exposure. However, some biocides may pose exposure risks of their own. In most cases it is not easy to tell whether a particular biocide will pose a human exposure concern or not.
May 23, 2003
Indoor Environmental Quality (2000), Thad Godish
See our Mold Solution Buyers Guide for more cleaning and prevention methods to reduce mold.
Maintenance Tips for Vapor Steam Cleaners
It is recommended to drain the boiler on your TidyVap, Ladybug, Ladybug XL, and Vapor Jet 2400 vapor steam cleaner every two to four weeks.
You must be sure the steam cleaner is cold. It is recommended to let the machine sit overnight if you have just used it.
You simply use the boiler drain removal tool to remove the drain screw and the let the water drain out from the steam cleaner.
It is most important to take care when replacing the drain screw after draining the boiler. If you are not careful, you can cross thread it and in some cases damage the brass threads which will result in the boiler needing to be replaced.
Start the threads correctly so the screw turns easily with no resistance – if there is any resistance after ½ to 1 turn, it means you have cross threaded it and should not continue to tighten it. Back it off and start again. Once you have started it correctly, handtighten it until it is thumb tight. Then do a final tightening by giving it a quarter turn with the wrench. Take caution not to over tighten it.
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/compare-vps.html
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